Shields - what's inside?

A good shield can be your best friend and also your biggest enemy. If it's made properly and has all qualities of a good craftsmanship, then you will definitely love to use it to defend yourself and knock others down. But if it's too heavy, not handy and mediocrely crafted with overly simplified technique - then more than likely you will hate it.

 

Would you like to look at GoHurt shield from every angle and then check it layer by layer to explore what’s inside?

 

Willing? Let’s begin!

 

Outside layer

Our shield does not stand out from the outside at all. Depending on how it is painted, no matter whether by you or us, it can attract the eye with artwork. How do we paint the shields? Usually the basic color is put on the whole shield - it causes that the material is soaked with the paint and thanks to it next layers are dyed more equally. Usually we use paints for wood/enamels, rarely oil paints (they can crack) or acrylics (they can make a "rubber" surface which reacts more to impacts). Layers of decorative elements besides the base are usually created with acrylic paint - thanks to this, it is possible to mix colors and obtain interesting transitions so the painting looks good.

 

Is it the end? No!

 

We are the only who always coat over the entire surface of the shield with a transparent, matt spray lacquer. This results in a longer life of the painting, but also its better quality - thanks to this, you cannot see the discrepancy in how different types of paint reflect light. What is more, the difference between successive layers for example shading, also disappears.

  

Pro tip

"Always paint the shield - even if you buy a shield without painting (which in GoHurt doesn't make sense - we always give one color for free 😏), it is worth protecting the material with it". 

 

For this purpose, we first use brush painting (so paint fills well gaps and holes), the second layer is applied with a roller for an even surface. Pay special attention to rants. Painting prevents the material from rubbing and it is more difficult to cut. For this reason, whenever you notice that the rant becomes worn, repaint the shield - even only on the rant. You can also use transparent paints for this purpose, if you are afraid that you will spoil the painting.

 

 

What's under the painting?

Material - we use fabrics used to sew tents - this is durable linen and cotton with big grammage. All the material is soaked with glue - not just glued to the plywood. It is worth paying attention to the fact that we use two layers of material. We stick the second layer on top of the first one after it is completely dry. This significantly extends the working time (by one day), but that's why the material on our shields creates a stiff and hard coating. It is the opposition of what manufacturers of cheaply made shields propose -  their shields are covered only with the jute, loosely woven material.

 

WELL FINISHED SHIELD

 

Shield construction - 2 layers of thick material, leather, rope and plywood

 

 

CHEAPLY FINISHED SHIELD

Example of shield made with poor technique of edges reinforced only with sewn leather

 

But wait a minute - the fighter doesn't actually even look at this side of the shield - what's on the other side?

 

Leather, very strong, sown handle shield in punch shields or a light, strong leather belt in duel shields. 10 mm rope inside the sown handle. Such a punch shield handle gives the possibility of a very strong grip and feel of the shield - this provides a great impact. We also consider introducing a mid-way solution in the form of a light shield handle made of two crossed stripes - it could give a better hold for an under-shield glove, but we all use the current solution that no one complains about - we have heard many unflattering opinions about other types which can be ripped off or unbuckled. But about unbuckling we will say in a moment.

 

Leather shield handle used at GoHurt

 

We do not use any buckles in GoHurt shields - except for unique shields that are not used in bohurt or at the client’s special request. It may happen that the armor is so demanding that it is necessary to use an unfastened belt on the forearm. We do not recommend this solution for sports purposes! You can have a buckle "just in case", but if you have a buckle in your current shield - sew it up for the duration of the tournament - you will be sure that the equipment will not fail!

 

How do we solve it? 

We imitate Ikea a bit, believing that customers have basic skills. We send the shield with a riveted strip on one side and a rivet/bolt hole on the other. We also include a set of rivet, washers and a bolt with a nut. If someone does not have the skills – he just fit the strap to his forearm and screw the bolt on the washer. A rivet is included for those who can do more.

 

Pro tip

"Firstly, attach the strap to your shield on the screw! Leather, despite the fact that we use 5mm thick cowhide, can stretch after a few / a dozen workouts. That's why start with mounting on the screw and after a month of training, reattach the shield and rivet it permanently. Such work before the tournament will save you from worse problems during it".

 

 

 

Shield handle and strap adjusted after several armour trainings 

 

Under the strap and the handle there is also a layer of strong material - which causes the heart of the shield, i.e. the plywood, does not chip anywhere and get wet.

 

What's on rants underneath all these layers of material?

It depends on the type of shield - we use leather on all punch shields. In duel shields, due to the weight of the skin, we use an additional layer of material on the very rant.

 

Why do we use leather underneath the fabric?

The reason is very simple - it is a more aesthetic solution and better than sewn - glued leather strips on top. If you watch fights, you can probably see that these strips of leather are tearing off, unsticking and finally falling off the shield. In such situations, you can also see how poorly protected the rant of the shield is - usually there is nothing under the skin and such a shield can end up in the garbage after a few blows. Durability and resistance are the main reasons why we stick leather underneath the fabric. 

 

What's deeper?

10 mm of rope around the shield is the ultimate barrier against blows. The rope deadens hits and prevents the plywood from chipping due to hits.

 

Rope 10 mm thick makes the first barrier against any blows 

 

We have just reached the heart of the shield - plywood. It might seem that it is normal plywood, but here we also improved its functioning. Each shield is glued with two layers of thinner plywood - this means that even if there is a flaw or a knot somewhere, it is not present throughout the entire thickness of the shield - for two reasons, the same as the leather under the material, durability and impacts resistance.

 

Solid plywood is the very heart of a shield 

 

Are our shields unique?

We have always said no, but more and more often it turns out that their ordinariness and reliability can be called unique in the bohurt market.

 

Summarizing

1. A hardwood plywood glued in two layers to minimize the possibility of blemishes is the heart of the shield.
2. There is a rope on the rant around the shield.
3. A layer of skin (punch shields) or an additional strip of material (duel shield) is stuck on the rope.
4. On the inside, there is one layer of material (punch shields), from the outside there are two layers of material completely soaked with glue (all shields).
5. Painting which has not only aesthetic function but also strengthens the material.
6. Lacquer.
7. The solid handle and the belt on the forearm

 

These qualities make the real value of the shield. You can be sure it will never fail you and it will be your best friend in the lists!

Remember that you can always use our designer to create shields with above-mentioned features in your preferred shape and color.

Check it here!